iconGetting Started
icon Getting Started

  • Bidders make offers based entirely on your description.
  • They look at the photos, read all of your text and make a judgment on value based on the information you supply.
  • Make sure you list all of the extras your car has without exaggeration.
  • Don’t say it’s a top spec if it isn’t as, if you don’t know the trim, say “I don’t know”
  • List out any damage or repair work that has been done so the bidders know what they are buying.
  • If an offer is accepted, the inspector will compare your description and photos against the car in front of him, it must match exactly.
  • If it doesn't match, you run the risk of the car failing inspection so take your time and make sure it’s described correctly.

  • Mileage is the No1 reason a sale falls though so its vital the mileage submitted matches what’s on the clock (within reason).
  • Please show the mileage in full, example 123,000 and not 123K and make sure you select the correct units of kilometers or miles.
  • There is a huge difference between 100,000 miles and 100,000 km.
  • There can be thousands in the differences between two identical cars, the same year but one has 60,000km and the other 120,000km. If 15,000 km is average yearly mileage, then the second car has 4 years more wear and tear on it and will most likely need some of its big ticket items replace much sooner.
  • If there is a mileage discrepancy, this will usually show up when the background checks are done, what it was when last NC’s, previously recorded dealer service intervals but if not, the inspector will see it (its the first thing he checks), the bidder is not obligated to complete the sale if the mileage doesn’t match so its vital this is recorded accurately.
  • For the avoidance of any doubt, the mileage should be no more than 500km more than the figure you uploaded.

  • Make sure the photos you upload are current and up-to-date photos of your car.
  • They should be an accurate reflection of exactly what the buyer is getting.
  • Do not use stock images or reuse the original photos from when you bought the car 3 years ago.
  • This may make the car look good but if they don't match when Inspector calls out, the car could fail inspection.
  • Photos taken of a filthy car is a red flag for the inspector - dirty car means the seller is hiding something, make sure your car is clean when you are taking the photos and on inspection if you get the car sold.

  • Yes all damage and repair work should be listed, detailed and photographed where possible.
  • There is nothing to be gained by not mentioning some thing that the inspector will see on arrival.
  • Nobody minds buying a car that’s been damaged and repaired well but they have a huge issue when they buy a car thinking it was perfect only to find out it’s been crashed and badly repaired.
  • The inspector is doing 6 to8 cars a day every day, he’ll notice if there’s been repair work done.
  • Undeclared crash damage is an automatic fail inspection.

  • Yes all damage and repair work should be listed, detailed and photographed where possible.
  • There is nothing to be gained by not mentioning some thing that the inspector will see on arrival.

  • The reason we don’t allow edits after an offer has been made is because the bidder has made an offer based on the information you supplied, if the information you supplied is now changing the bidder will need to be notified and given the opportunity to re-bid or cancel the bid if it’s something materially different.
  • An example of this is adding 10,000 km to the mileage, while this may not sound much of a difference to you it’s almost a years more wear and tear and will affect the price.

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